by Sam Tackeff | Sep 30, 2013 | Challenge, Meat
Za’atar Goat Chops. Goat is one of the world’s most widely consumed meats, but around these parts it’s a little hard to find, and I never see people actually buying it. Goat can be a little bit tough, but lends itself well to curries, stews and other braises. In chop form, it can be cooked quickly and has a nice depth of flavor beyond what you can get from beef – and stands up well to bold spices. Ground, it’s delicious as burgers or meatballs provided that you add some fat back into the mix – I love it with onion, parsley, and Turkish spices, and call them goat köfte. A few local restaurants have goat featured on their menu – Highland Kitchen has a spicy coconut curried goat stew, and I hear that Darbar has some legendary Pakistani goat dishes, but I don’t eat it nearly as often as I’d like.
This week there were two goat chops in my meat share, one for each of us. With frightening stories in the news from abroad, I’ve been thinking a lot about my family in Istanbul lately. It’s not that I’m particularly worried about their safety – Istanbul is quite a cosmopolitan city, and largely progressive compared to its neighbors – but just knowing that they are close to regions of instability makes me anxious. Za’atar isn’t particularly Turkish, but it’s a lovely Middle Eastern herbaceous spice mix that reminds me of family. There are many Za’atar recipes out there, some with thyme, oregano, or marjoram, but the version I’ve been using lately is a mix from Sofra, with two ingredients: Jordanian summer savory, and sesame seeds. To cook chops, I heat up my cast iron to medium-high with a little bit of oil, season the chops with salt, pepper, and a heavy pinch of za’atar, and put them in the pan to cook for six minutes on one side, without touching them. I then flip them over, cook them for six more minutes, and put them on a plate to rest before serving – long enough to prep a salad of dry farmed tomatoes, and feta. This is my usual method for chops of any kind if they are about an inch or so thick. If you can’t find goat chops, you could certainly prepare lamb chops this way, but go for the goat!
by Sam Tackeff | Sep 30, 2012 | Uncategorized
Saturdays are usually errand days around our house. My plan was to wake up and head into CrossFit, but I woke up at 6:00 a.m. and had my doubts. At 7:15 I contemplated making coffee but lay staring at the ceiling. At 7:45 it was pouring out and grey, and by 8:00 I had already covered my head with the pillow and that was the end of that.
Instead, I woke up late, and reluctantly walked the two miles to the bank with a podcast in order to make my gym-pact for the week. It was overcast but no longer raining, and the trees were bright enough to perk me right up.
Devon met me at the bank, and we proceeded to do some semi-complicated banking while learning about how the teller was the accidental fourth child, even though her mother had been about to tie her tubes. For some reason, we inspire complete strangers to tell us the most amazing stories.
My favorite of these tell-all’s was when the 20-something teller in San Francisco mentioned to us that she had recently gotten the dinosaur tattoo on her cleavage, and was excited to have a child in the future so that it would be wallpaper when he breastfeeds.
When we got home, I put together a lunch of leftover roast cauliflower with lemon, and some Za’atar chicken thighs.
Za’atar is a wonderful spice blend from the Middle East. There is no one za’atar recipe, each family has their own special mixes, and the herbs and spices vary widely in different regions and cultures. Most za’atar blends I like have a lot of thyme and oregano, some cumin, and sesame seeds. You’ll also see it with lemony red sumac, sage or mint.
I love sprinkling it on eggs, in salad dressing, baked onto pita, or liberally coating chicken thighs with the stuff before frying them up. While I’ve made my own in the past, I picked up this particular za’atar blend at Sofra, Ana Sortun’s wonderful Middle Eastern cafe in Watertown. They sell it for $4, which, frankly is a little steep for something I can make myself, but I really do enjoy the blend.
In the late afternoon, I was hungry again, and made myself a bowl of pumpkin eggs with pumpkin pie spice, topped with almond and coconut butter. This is one of my favorite fall treats, but admittedly tastes a heck of a lot better with a large dose of maple syrup in it. (Soon!)
By eight, we were both hungry for dinner, but I hadn’t quite gotten my act together. Leftovers to the rescue! I cooked up some fresh chorizo, with cumin, cinnamon, and a good dose of chile from M.F. Dulock, added the last bit of meaty tomato sauce and carrots from our beef stew, served it all over a bowl of steamed cauliflower, and pretended that we were in Spain.
After dinner, we turned on the tv and watched the most amazing show on television – Jackson Galaxy: The Cat Daddy. You might be skeptical, but this guy is a genius.
No seriously. It’s on Animal Planet, and features a tattooed gentleman who is a guitar player by night, cat behaviorist by day. He goes around with a guitar case filled with cat toys. Pretty much every episode features slightly deranged pet owners who make excuses for their pets’ bad behavior. And then Jackson comes in and does his thing, and the cats turn into well-behaved, happy animals, and their owners become slightly more likeable at the end. Enjoyable, every single episode.
(Photo via Jackson’s Instagram)
