by Sam Tackeff | Sep 27, 2014 | Salads
Okay, I know that technically summer was over a week ago. But I’m refusing to let the season go. Here’s one last recipe that you can make year round to remind you of the glory of the summer season. It’s a dish that I’ll affectionately refer to here as the “whoops, I have to bring something to a party and I’m already 20 minutes late salad”. The great thing about this dish is that you can make it a few hours in advance, and it only tastes better as it sits. You can use fresh corn or frozen, gorgeous bursting summer tomatoes or those year round grape tomatoes – just make sure they are ripe!
This recipe also makes great use of my favorite kitchen tool: kitchen shears. You don’t have to be all fancy and get a real pair of kitchen shears, you can also just buy a great pair of scissors, and re-purpose them as “kitchen-only”. They work through cherry tomatoes and fresh herbs in no time.
{Pretend That It Is} Summer Corn + Tomato Salad
16 ounces sweet corn kernels (frozen or about 4 cobs worth of corn)
3 tablespoons salted butter
salt and pepper
16 ounces of cherry tomatoes
a dozen or so basil leaves
a container of mini-mozzarella balls (marinated are good!)
drizzle of good balsamic (optional)
In a skillet over medium high heat, melt butter and heat corn kernels until warmed through. Take off heat, transfer to a large bowl. With a pair of kitchen shears, chop cherry tomatoes in half directly into the bowl. Tear a handful of basil into the bowl, and toss in a container of mini mozzarella balls. (Choose the size of your choice – they make these in a range of tiny to medium size. All will work! Toss everything together, taste, season with salt and pepper, toss again – you likely won’t need much salt if you used salted butter – and drizzle, if you’d like, with a bit of good balsamic vinegar. Let sit for an hour at room temperature for flavors to meld, or stick in the fridge for several hours, take out, and let settle to room temperature before serving.
by Sam Tackeff | Oct 12, 2012 | Braises, Meat
There are two Nigel Slater recipes for lamb shanks that I use often. The first is his lamb shanks with anchovy (you can watch the video of him making it), and the second, his Moroccan spiced lamb shanks with aubergine from Real Cooking. Left with what is likely my last eggplant of summer (there’s supposed to be a frost tonight!), and an abundance of good anchovies from Eataly, I decided to combine the two. I love throwing anchovies in braises because they lend a salty-umami taste without screaming out “there’s a fish in here!”
To make this dish, you’ll want two lamb shanks. These were actually quite small, but you could easily get larger ones if you are feeding more people.
I drizzled them with a little bit of olive oil, seasoned them in salt and pepper, and seared them off in my deep skillet in a little bit of tallow (rendered beef fat, a gift from the awesome folks at M.F. Dulock). A dutch oven would work well for this, but my dearly beloved Le Creuset 7 1/4 Qt. is currently injured, and I haven’t been able to send it back to get a replacement. While doing this, I turned the oven to 300 F to preheat.
After browning the shanks, I added the chopped onions and a few cloves of garlic to the pan. I sprinkled on some rosemary and added a few Turkish bay leaves my mom smuggled back from a tree in Istanbul.
I then chopped the anchovies, added them to the pot, added tomato paste, an eggplant chopped into large cubes, and some water to come halfway up the shanks. You could easily use some red wine and stock here if you had some. The anchovies are quite salty, but I tasted the broth and gave it a final seasoning.
I brought it all to a simmer, put on the lid, popped it in the oven, let it cook for an hour, turned the shanks, and braised for an hour more. The result:
I served Devon’s off the bone over some pasta with parmigiano, and my bowl with a double portion of eggplant, and a grating of lemon zest and sprinkle of parsley.
Braised Lamb Shanks with Tomato, Eggplant, and Anchovies
2 lamb shanks
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, roughly chopped
3 whole cloves garlic
2 sprigs rosemary (or about 1/2 Tbs. dried)
2 bay leaves
4 anchovy fillets, chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 medium eggplant, chopped into large cubes
1 can diced tomatoes (15 oz.)
about a cup of water
lemon zest + parsley to serve
Preheat the oven to 300 F. Season the shanks with salt an pepper, and brown them in a dutch over or deep skillet in some olive oil or good fat (I used tallow). When the shanks have browned, add the onions and garlic. Nestle in the rosemary and bay leaves. Chop the anchovy fillets and add them to the pan, then add the tomato paste and gentle stir. Add the chopped eggplant, pour over the diced tomatoes and the water to reach about half way up the shanks. Bring to a simmer. Once simmering, put the lid on, and bake in the oven for two hours, turning the shanks half way through.
Serve topped with lemon zest and parsley. Or, remove the meat from the bone, and serve over pasta with a grating of parmigiano. Leftovers taste particularly good on day two with a few poached eggs.
by Sam Tackeff | Sep 22, 2012 | Challenge
I’m not sure how it happened already, but it seems that Fall has arrived. While New Englanders are already bracing themselves for what is likely to be a horrendous winter, I’m just so thrilled that my favorite season is here. Fall foliage, creative layering, mulled apple cider, pumpkin chocolate chip cake (though, not for a while yet for me), pumpkins, warm blankets and lingering in bed in the morning.. I love it all.
Fall also feels like renewal to me. For someone who loved school, I was always excited to be back in action come September. Even though I’m no longer a student, I always feel the urge to pick up new books and read all season long. Things happen in the fall.
Physically, I’m much more suited to fall. You don’t get overheated or sweaty, and you don’t freeze. In New England, there could be snow tomorrow, or 85 degree weather for the next two months, so I’ve learned not to take any good day for granted. And today was a glorious day. Temperature in the low 70’s, and it felt like summer, but this tree had eagerly shifted outfits. I’m so looking forward to the next few months.
This morning I had a late start, or at least, as late as my adult brain would allow me to go. Gone are the days where I could sleep in until noon. This is not a bad thing. After a few hours with a book, we headed out to Needham to pick up my race packet for tomorrow!
We opted for a brunch at Whole Foods, and each parted ways at the salad bar to find our own meal. I made a big colorful salad, with eggs, tomatoes, roasted peppers, squash, onions, carrots, cabbage, a little bit of sweet potato, a spoonful of cashews, oil and vinegar. On the side I treated myself to “dessert” – a Coconut Cream Pie LÄRABAR. The ingredients in these bars are great – dates, unsweetened coconut, almonds, cashews and coconut oil, and they taste delicious! (Dates however are super sweet, and this definitely was a treat for me, given that I’ve now had them two days in a row. Danger!)
After brunch, we finished up our errands with a trip to Pinkberry. Which I abstained from. Devon tried out their seasonal chocolate hazelnut flavor, and I had this delicious iced tea from the Starbucks next door. We sat outside for a while, people watching, chatting, and upgrading Devon’s phone to iOS 6. I’m likely going to switch to the iPhone 5 next month, and am looking forward to everything except for the switch from the awesome Google navigation to the travesty that is the current Apple dot thing. Even with the new turn by turn… y’all don’t know what you are missing.
In the late afternoon I headed out for my daily walk. An hour around the neighborhood listening to a podcast before returning home to make dinner. I finally found a good little route with walkable hills! My legs miss those Noe Valley walkabouts, and I’ve been yearning for steep inclines lately!
For dinner, I took out two lamb shoulder chops from the butcher, which I seasoned with salt, pepper and cumin. I then started on some cabbage – I chopped up a small 1/2 head of green cabbage which went on the stove with some of my homemade chicken stock, salt and pepper. I let it wilt down for about 10 minutes, seasoned it with some cumin and lime juice, and took it off the heat.
Then, I quickly fried up my chops. 3 minutes on each side for mine, and a few extra minutes for Devon’s.
I set them aside to rest, and fried up a single fresh pork sausage, and a tomato for myself. Here’s my dinner plate:
After dinner we watched Top Chef Masters (go Chris!) and Kenneth Brannaugh in Wallender. I can’t say enough about every single show from the BBC these days, and PBS for airing several incredible seasons of Masterpiece in a row.
Dessert, because I reckoned I hadn’t eaten enough today – a chopped up apple with a spoonful of coconut butter and a spoonful of almond butter.
Now, to bed, so I can get sleep before the race!
by Sam Tackeff | Jan 14, 2011 | Indian, Pantry Staples
Last week, I had a mini-tragedy.
I was eating my way through half-filled jars in the fridge, and finally came to the end of an excellent tomato chutney that I had acquired from Trader Joe’s. I really liked the stuff, and I decided that it was well worth getting a replacement jar. When I went back to the store to do so, I was shocked – SHOCKED! – to find out that they had discontinued it. “We loved it here, but our tastes in the Bay Area don’t always translate to the rest of the country,” the manager said, shaking his head.
I’ve seen people wither into depression after TJ’s sends their favorite product to the graveyard. I was on the verge of a chutney-less meltdown. I assure you that this was a great tomato chutney. A little sweet, a little spicy, a little tangy. I used it to stir fry greens, to serve with curries, and as a chicken marinade. It was good with toast, topped with melted cheese. It was also a great complement to roasted cauliflower. What was I going to do without it?
And then I remembered that I spent the past year working on my friend Karen’s mostly-condiment cookbook, and I could probably make my own version at home. I knew the ingredients (I wrote them down off the back of the jar), and all I had to do with fiddle with the proportions. It couldn’t hurt to try?
After an hour of tinkering, I present to you:
(Not Quite) Trader Joe’s Tomato Chutney
makes about 1.5 cups
time: 40 minutes
1 (14.5 oz) can diced tomatoes (no salt added), with juice
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup cider vinegar
1 teaspoon cumin
1 large pinch Maldon salt (or kosher salt)
1 teaspoon curry powder
1/2 teaspoon red chili flakes
3 cloves of garlic, peeled
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
In a small saucepan, add all the ingredients and stir well. [I used an immersion blender in the saucepan before cooking to break it down into a chunky paste, but you could wait until after cooking to process in a food processor or blender.]
Bring to a boil (it will bubble and splatter, so be careful!) then turn the heat down to low, and cover. Simmer for thirty minutes, making sure to stir every five to ten minutes, so that the chutney does not stick to the bottom.
Spoon into a glass jar. This is a fresh chutney and should be stored in the refrigerator for up to two months. You could probably can it, but I find that it’s so quick to put together, that it’s probably easier to just make a fresh batch when you want it.
by Sam Tackeff | Aug 6, 2009 | Ingredients, Italian, Pantry Staples, Quick and Easy
Farro is an interesting grain with a nice bite, that is well suited to easy summer salads. I use it in recipes that call for wheatberries, green lentils, bulgur or even barley occasionally as a replacement, but I find that I love it best in this salad with tomato, basil, feta, and a balsamic vinaigrette. I’m lucky to find farro at Rainbow Foods in San Francisco, but in some places, farro can be pricey – try shopping for it in stores with bulk bins, at trader joe’s, or even online.
Farro is an Italian word, and when I eat this grain, I find myself transported to Tuscany, sitting in the garden of my imaginary apartment, eating blissfully, drinking a glass of wine, and contemplating nothing but relaxation.
As usual, I use Mark Bittman’s pretty foolproof way of cooking most grains – put one cup of the grain in a small pot, and cover by at least an inch of liquid – bring to a boil, and turn down, cover, and simmer for 30-35 minutes without touching it. Then you can test it – if it’s not done, just add a few more tablespoons of liquid, and leave on the heat for ten more minutes. Unlike rice, don’t worry if there is extra liquid after the cooking time, just drain it.
MASTER RECIPE! Variations: This salad is also a great vehicle for crunchy vegetables – feel free to add fresh corn kernels (you don’t need to cook them!), black beans, bits of chopped red pepper, cucumber, shavings of carrot, chick peas, or even little cubes of summer squash to name just a few! Also, you can punch up the herbs with some fresh parsley or fresh mint (or both) to give it some extra green. No balsamic on hand? Just make a simple lemon vinaigrette with the same proportions of lemon to olive oil.
Farro Salad with Tomatoes, Basil, and Feta
serves 2 as a main, 4 as a side
Ingredients:
– 1 cup farro
– enough salted water or chicken broth to cover farro by one inch in pot (about 2.5 cups)
– 1 large heirloom tomato, chopped (ripe! uglier the better!)
– about ten leaves of basil, rolled into a cigar shape and chopped
– salt and pepper
– 2 ounces feta cheese
– 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
– 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Method:
1. In a medium saucepan, combine the farro and enough water (or chicken stock) to cover farro by an inch. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the farro is tender, about 35 minutes. Drain, and set aside.
2. In a large bowl, add the chopped tomatoes, basil, and feta, and cover with the slightly cooled farro. In a small bowl, whisk together the balsamic vinegar, salt, pepper, and olive oil to make a vinaigrette. Pour into the farro salad, and toss to coat. You can eat this warm, or it can be made in advance and popped in the refrigerator. Just let it come back to room temperature when you want to eat it, and make sure to re-toss it!
