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Entries from December 31st, 2009

Quick Bites at Il Cane Rosso

December 31st, 2009 · 1 Comment · Restaurants

I took myself on a date yesterday afternoon. I wore my bright new red coat, which is great for confidence, and headed out on the town. And by on the town, I mean that I had some errands to run. And by errands, I mean shopping.

Fortunately it was a very nice afternoon in the bay, and I ended up walking from my little corner of Noe Valley past Dolores Park, and down to Church and Market with no real target in mind. I hopped on the J-Church and headed into the Embarcadero to wander through the Ferry Building. The Ferry Building is the ideal spot for wandering, because if you get bored you can walk outside and sit watching the cars shuttle by on the bay bridge, or you can just eat samples all afternoon.

I spent some time in Sur La Table, testing out some Shun and Global knives, and a tiny part of me wishing I could be a chef and get sponsored by one of these companies and receive a nice shiny set of my own, all for free. Alas, that’s probably not a good enough reason to become a chef…

I was also happy to see Mariposa Baking Company has set up shop in the Ferry Building – tasty gluten free treats that won’t make you miss the gluten laden stuff.

This time I passed up the sweet stuff, and opted to finally sit down and try a bite at Il Cane Rosso, the joint venture of Daniel Patterson (the chef and owner of Coi) and Lauren Kiino (who headed the kitchen at Delfina). Il Cane Rosso is what I like to call slow fast food – where you order your local, organic, and seasonal food, and sit down to eat it in a casual setting with no real table service. I actually love eating this way – I’m particularly fussy about the quality of my food, but have no desire to eat every day in a formal setting. Perhaps why I love Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc so much.

After reading John Birdsall’s review in SF Weekly, Sandy of Foodhoe’s Foraging’s write up, and seeing Haas of No Salad As A Meal’s write up and beautiful photos I knew I had to stop by immediately even if just for a quick bite.

One of my favorite things about this little restaurant is the way it looks. Namely, I’d love to have a kitchen in my own home that looks like this – gray concrete floors (yes, I’m a concrete lover), wooden paneling of real wood, shiny silver appliances, open shelves, and those red metal accent beams and sweeping high ceilings… A girl can dream. But I also quite enjoy the seasonal accents like the squash and corn here. I try to do this regularly in my own kitchen before eating said accents.

I love this big squash! Can’t you see it roasted with a big cheesy strata inside it?

And also, I need to give a nod to their selection of drinks. I’m not really a soda drinker, but their selection even had me debating – Fentimans botanically brewed sodas are mighty tasty.

Finally I opted for the soup of the day, the “Long & Bailey Pork and Lentil Soup” ($6). I know, all I ate was one soup, and I’m passing judgment? Shame on me! But let me tell you, this soup was pretty near perfect. It had the right balance of stuff to flavorful broth that was perfectly seasoned. The lentils were tender but still had a nice bite and weren’t falling apart. The long and bailey pork was cubed in bite size pieces that were melt in your mouth and so darn savory. The difference between this stuff and the conventional is like two completely different animals. It was the perfect afternoon treat.

And yet I managed to only get one measly picture of the soup, fogging my lens to boot. Bad food blogger! I’ll be back soon for a more thorough tasting. Although lunch is generally the perfect time to go, their three course tasting dinner is $25 dollars, and if anything like lunch, is pretty much a steal.

Just as I was getting up to go they were closing their doors for a brief break between lunch and dinner. I contemplating staying for round two, but I had places to go and things to do. I’ll be back, sooner, rather than later.

Il Cane Rosso, open daily for lunch and dinner, breakfasts on Saturdays and Sundays
One Ferry Building #41
San Francisco
Phone: 415.391.7599
www.canerossosf.com

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December 29th Farm Box

December 30th, 2009 · 2 Comments · Farmers Market, Vegetables

Here are the contents of this week’s farm box from Farm Fresh to You: leeks, nantes carrots, collard greens, red leaf lettuce, a red cabbage, a butternut squash, kiwifruit, and a bag of fresh walnuts. The walnuts are particularly exciting because fresh walnuts are eons better than the old, dried out stuff you get in the tins. [Yes, eons is the wrong measurement here, but I like the word, and am going to attribute using it to the mental melting that occurred last night while watching Megashark vs. Giant Octopus.]

My first step this week was to take everything out of the box and put it on the table – not specifically for a little photo shoot, but to clean and prep everything for the refrigerator. A few years at Stearns Farm and I got it down to a system: I now have Ziplocks of two sizes to keep things fresh. I rinse and dry salads, I trim off tops and excess before putting them in the refrigerator. Ok, but the photo shoot helps – specifically so that by the end of the week I don’t forget that I have something in the recess of my fridge and let it go to waste.

And then the excess tops (only leek and carrot tops this week) go in a pot with a bunch of water to make some homemade vegetable stock. Nothing to waste!

Except it’s not a perfect system. I was freezing and had the heat on yesterday and therefore couldn’t hear the gentle ho hum of the boiling pot, and consequently forgot about it until I had only a few cups of concentrated stock left.

So? Leek soup for lunch! I snipped in some fresh parsley and a good squeeze of lemon and it was ready to go.

Things I plan on making this week with my vegetables:

1. Roasted Butternut Squash

2. More Kiwifruit Sorbet (notes about this soon)

3. Red cabbage and onions with Chicken Schnitzel

4. Indian Spiced Collards with Yogurt

I’m still not sure about the walnuts… I was tempted to make a walnut liquor but they are so tasty I don’t know if I want to give up the pleasure of eating them all now.

Better Ideas?

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As Seen at Omnivore

December 29th, 2009 · 1 Comment · Baking, Local stores

Before I forget, I wanted to put up a few photos that I took at Omnivore Books over the past few weeks. Working in this little bookstore is so enjoyable on a day to day basis, but what really makes it exciting are all the great events that we have. We have such a great little community!

One of the best perks are the foods that our customers bring in for events to share with everyone. This braided spice bread called “Saffranbrod” was made by Robert, in honor of St. Lucia Day on December 13th. It was a dense yellow bread, filled with spices that let off incredible aromas. We topped it with lingonberry jam. And it was still warm. I ate three slices. The recipe was from our guest speaker Greg Patent’s cookbook ‘A Baker’s Odyssey‘ in honor of his arrival. The stars had aligned!

Greg Patent, who writes GREAT books about baking, including among others ‘A Baker’s Odyssey‘ and ‘Baking in America’ (which won a James Beard) couldn’t have been more enjoyable. He comes from a diverse food background: he was born in Shanghai, with one grandmother from Iraq cooking Middle Eastern foods, and the other grandmother from Russia. When he was 11 his parents moved back to the U.S., and along the way to these cookbooks he ended up getting a Ph.D in Zoology. What is it with scientists and food? There are so many crossovers!!! (Barbara Ghazarian, author of Simply Quince is a micro-biologist… and Harold McGee…)

Here’s a picture of Greg with Celia, our fearless leader at Omnivore, and Paula, lifting up the bottle of Muscat that was sent to us to enjoy. It was a Les Petits Grains Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois, a beautiful sweet wine that I sincerely wish I had a case full of!!!  (I’m thinking of all the possibilities… most of which involve me drinking it straight… but maybe a sabayon? Ice cream? Ooo….)

But wait! There was more! Seriously…. I could subsist completely on the food I eat at work…. One of our other customers Jessica has started a seriously tasty little pie business here in San Francisco called The Golden Crust, and brought us some wonderful lemon meringue to sample. So good!

I think I’m going to make this a regular feature.

Omnivore Books

3885 Cesar Chavez Street
San Francisco, CA 94131-2013
(415) 282-4712

Come visit us!

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Sauteed Cabbage with Onion and Prosciutto

December 21st, 2009 · 5 Comments · Farmers Market, Vegetables

Cabbage

I recently subscribed to a new CSA (community supported agriculture) here in San Francisco. Every other week, I’ll be getting a box from Farm Fresh to You delivered right to my doorstep. I’ve been going each week to farmers market for the past year, but it’s a little chilly lately and I’ve been slacking. This way I’ll definitely have some fresh organic fruits and veg, even when I don’t feel like going to market. And it’ll make me eat more dark leafy greens. Kale chips, here I come.

It’s not as wondrous as my previous membership to Stearns Farm at the outer edges of Framingham, Massachusetts – but it’s still pretty exciting. [I could wax poetic about Stearns for hours - it's exactly what a CSA should be - required farm hours, picking about half of your own weekly vegetables, shared meals, harvests, a real connection to a farm and a community, but alas, I'm a little far for that nowadays.]

This weeks box:

Dec 15th box

Sauteed Cabbage with Onion and Prosciutto
serves 1 as a meal, or a few as a side dish

In a heavy bottomed pot, heat a Tablespoon  of Olive Oil on medium heat, and saute 4 slices (about 2 ounces) prosciutto that you have chopped until crisp, just a few minutes. Take the prosciutto out and set aside. Then, add a roughly chopped onion to the pot, and cook until slightly tender – about five minutes. Go ahead and deglaze the pan with a few tablespoons of sherry to help lift up any brown bits and add some flavor. Add in one chopped head of cabbage, preferably Savoy, but whatever you have is fine. Stir around until things are coated, add a cup of low sodium chicken stock or water, turn the heat to medium low, cover, and let braise for 20-30 minutes until everything is tender and soft. Season with lots of pepper and a tiny bit of salt. Serve hot, topped with the crispy prosciutto.


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Snapshots from Cattlemens

December 21st, 2009 · No Comments · Restaurants

Boar

Last week I went to a holiday party shindig at Cattlemans’ Steakhouse, a fairly run of the mill steakhouse chain that while I wouldn’t necessarily head to on my own, was perfectly content to eat at when the food was free. We had various crudites, shrimp with dipping sauce, and split a new york strip steak. I topped my baked potato with the ranch style beans and left with a happy tummy. And yet I didn’t actually manage to take any photos of the food – but I did snap a photo of the wall decorations (above) to give you an idea of the ambiance. I also shot one of the ice cream dishes that were full of butter. (Large water glasses left in for scale.) There were a couple of these on each table. Now that’s a lotta butter!!!

Butter

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Wordless Wednesday: Coffee at Ritual Roasters

December 16th, 2009 · 2 Comments · Uncategorized

Coffee

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Tasty Things to do with Beans

December 4th, 2009 · 8 Comments · Books, Pantry Staples

Rancho Gordo Beans

They came!!!  A box full of Rancho Gordo beans in many colors and shapes and sizes! Think of the possibilities! I’m getting so hungry! I ordered these as a reward for some hard work in the “personal wellness department” – nothing like rewarding yourself with something healthy, tasty and delicious. They also make great unique gifts.

When I posted my bean soup a few days ago, I actually got private emails from people confiding that they had no idea what to do with beans, and asking what I did with them other than the spicy bean soup and chili. For me, beans are pretty much a daily food, and I’m almost never eating the same bean dish twice!

At the beginning of the week, I like to cook a batch of dried beans. Canned beans are fine (I tend to have a few cans of organic beans in the pantry for emergencies) but dried beans are so much better – particularly organic and heirloom varieties – they just taste better and have more texture. They also have much lower levels of sodium, which is added to the cans as preservatives – so if you do use canned beans, make sure to give them a rinse before cooking. I like to buy my dried beans from Rainbow in San Francisco, Phipps Country Store, or from bulk bins in a store that has large turnover to ensure freshness. Heirloom beans from Rancho Gordo are great because they are less than a year old, and the fresher the bean – the more nutrients, the better the taste and the quicker the cooking time. All it takes is a soak over night and a few hours in some boiling water – it’s mostly hands off. They are also perfect for slow cookers, so theoretically you wouldn’t even have to be at home while they cook.

For those of you concerned about the, erm.. “Musical Quality” of beans – there are a few things that you can do – try boiling your beans with a strip of Kombu (kelp – from which the taste Umami was discovered), or the Mexican herb Epazote, both of which help break down certain chemical compounds in the beans and reduce the post-bean-consumption concerts.

Bittmans

I like to alternate different beans each week for variety. My current favorites are Borlotti beans (cranberry beans), garbanzos (chick peas), and Christmas Limas, but I’m always out on the hunt for new varietals that I haven’t tasted. After cooking my batch at the beginning of the week, I add the cooked beans to soups, salads, mash them on sandwiches, throw into omelets, mix with salsa and top with some cheese, or dress them with a vinaigrette. I also like tossing them with roasted vegetables, making chili, and eating them with dark leafy greens such as collards, kale, or chard. I get a lot of great ideas from Mark Bittman’s Books – How to Cook Everything and How to Cook Everything Vegetarian. And from the cookbook “Heirloom Beans” by Steve Sando of Rancho Gordo, and Vanessa Barrington.

Another trick I use to make beans (or anything else for that matter) interesting is my “pick an ethnic cuisine, and use the right flavors from the condiment collection to flavor the food in that way.” Every culture has recipes for beans, and it’s fun to experience a global bean perspective. This is where having a good pantry comes in handy. For instance, I might decide that I want my beans to taste Moroccan – so I might pick lima beans, and flavor them with cumin, cinnamon, and pepper, and serve it over cous cous. Or I might want to go Indian, and choose kidney beans and lentils with curry powder and garam masala. Mexican? Maybe saute some onion and red pepper, and add black beans with oregano and mexican red chile. It’s not a perfect science, or perfectly authentic, but it’s a great way to mix things up and keep the taste buds excited.

When in doubt, I crack out some of my great regional cookbooks, or look on the blogs for new ideas. I recently made Red Beans and Rice, adapted from John Besh’s really fantastic My New Orleans Cookbook (ok, I didn’t have ham hocks but I used andouille sausage). Elise from simply recipes also has a great recipe for red beans and rice. I also love making Turkish dishes like Kuru Fasulye, simmered white beans and meat, (a good recipe from Zerrin’s blog), or Barbunya Pilaki - a cold bean salad in olive oil, like this one from Almost Turkish recipes. Or, you can go for the baked beans route – not totally traditional, but I happen to really like Heidi Swanson’s Beer Baked Beans.

Rancho Gordo Spices

Some more bean ideas:

1. Make your own hummus – mash cooked garbanzo beans (chickpeas) with a spoonful of tahini, lemon juice, olive oil, and salt. You could also do it with cooked white beans, and bonus points if you top it with some pine nuts, a dusting of cumin, and fresh mint or parsley.

2. Refried beans – works great with cooked pinto beans or black beans – heat some oil/lard/or butter in a skillet, saute some onion (optional), and add mash your beans into it with a little bit of water. Cook until everything is warm, and season with a little salt, and maybe some cheddar or tapatio sauce if you have it. Top maybe with salsa and guacamole if you want, and eat with a warm tortilla.

3. Beans and a fried Egg – top plain beans, refried beans, bean soup, bean mash, you name it – with a fried egg. Poke egg, and stir into beans, and it’s just plain delicious. Although, frankly you top a good, organic, pastured egg on pretty much anything and it’s delicious.

4. Beans and Pasta – you could add cooked cannelini (white beans) or borlotti (cranberry) beans to your spaghetti and red sauce, or toss them with garlic and olive oil with some short pastas like campanelle or penne and top with a good dusting of black pepper and Parmesan.

5. Beans as a side dish – one of my favorite preparations of really any bean is simply tossed in a simple vinaigrette. This works best when the beans are still warm from cooking, but after tossing you can whack it in the fridge until about 20 minutes before you are ready to eat, at which point you take them out and let them get to room temperature. You can add freshly chopped vegetables such as tomatoes, cucumber, red bell peppers, and trim in fresh herbs like parsley and mint, and add in some salty cheese such as feta, or even hard cheeses like an aged parmesan.

And this is just the tip of the iceberg.

Seriously folks, the possibilities are limitless. Just get a pound of beans and go for it.

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Spicy Bean Soup (Good for Sick People)

December 2nd, 2009 · 4 Comments · Mexican, Pantry Staples, Soups

SpicyBeanSoupOk… I may have… in a fit of passion… ordered a massive quantity of beans two days ago from Rancho Gordo. And by massive quantity I mean… 15 pounds of beans. So, I’m going to do my best in the next few days to reduce my current bean pantry, and hopefully share with you all some of my results.

This morning I was surfing around the interwebs and found a recipe called “Good Soup for Sick People” on Heidi Swanson’s site ‘101 Cookbooks‘ and even though I’m not sick, it sounded like a good soup for cold people, tired people, and people on their day off work huddled on their couch, (ie: me.)

Heidi makes hers in the oven, using her nice Le Creuset pot, [which I'm about to be blessed with for the holidays but I'm having trouble currently making the choice of color and size (Dijon? Carribean? Onyx? Advice anyone?)] but as I don’t have one yet, I had to make do with the stove top. It works out just fine.

This recipe basically has 6 ingredients,  all of which were in my pantry, and is completely hands off. Prep time? About three minutes. And it’s pretty flexible – if you have shallots instead of onion, you could do that, or if you need to use canned stock, that’s fine too. Although I’d go for a low sodium variety so that you can adjust your own seasoning. No chipotle in adobo (although really you can get these everywhere)? – go for a dried chile.

So you put it all in a pot. And you wait. And then what you get at the end is this savory, spicy, and hearty soup – the beans will have plumped up and the onions and garlic become so soft they melt in your mouth. It tastes a little bit like french onion soup… with a kick! Believe me, that chipotle really fires you up! I think this one is going to go into heavy rotation in the next few weeks.

Spicy Bean Soup (Good for Sick People)
adapted from 101 cookbooks
serves 2

Ingredients:
1 cup of dried borlotti beans (or other cranberry beans), preferably that you have soaked overnight*
1 large onion, sliced or roughly chopped
8-10 cloves of garlic, peeled, whole, trimmed
8 cups of stock (I used home made turkey stock)
1 chile pepper in adobo
1 bay leaf

To serve : (optional, but highly recommended):
fresh cilantro
freshly grated parmesan

1. In a soup pot, add all of the ingredients, and bring to boil. Cover, turn down the heat to a simmer, and let it go for an hour or so. After the first hour, check to make sure your liquid hasn’t decreased too substantially, and add water if needed. Let the thing simmer for a second hour until beans are tender, and you can’t hold yourself back from eating it all.

To serve, top with some fresh cilantro, and a shaving of Parmesan.

Eat. Feel restored.

*Note: I didn’t soak my beans. They were done in just over 2 hours. But then again, that’s because I buy them from Rancho Gordo, and they are fresh, fresh, fresh!

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